I got a little ahead of myself hanging the nose as I noticed while mocking up the fenders the arc of the hood at the very end did not match up neatly with the fender profile. The fenders relative to the doors needed to dive off a little more in the front. Roughly about 3/8" for everything to jive. So I decided to figure out how I was going to attach the fenders so that all the relationships were true. First thing I did was shape a piece of 3/4" .049 wall square tube to the profile of the fender. This would end up tucking underneath the inner rim along the hood seam. With the skin back off of the hood frame I could see that the hood frame was a little too flat especially at the end where the fenders rolled off pretty good. I re shaped the hood frame to match the  3/4 " stock I had just shaped to match the fender edge. Earlier in the build I had installed two pretty substantial pieces of 1 1/2" .090 wall square stock to act as hood prop (gas pistons) supports. I drilled and tapped these and attached some slotted brackets made out of .060 mild steel. Next laying the 3/4" profile spaced 1/4" off the side of the hood frame I tacked it to the bracket. Following down to the middle of the hood line I installed and adjustable bumper for the hood frame and an angle bracket with a shim under it in case I needed to adjust height here. Down in front where the fender drops off I installed another slotted bracket and tacked the 3/4" stock to it.

Finally I hung the fender on the 3/4" stock. After doing both fenders and making sure everything matched pretty well I re attached to hood mechanism. 

Also I decided since the fender was in place to see what I was going to have to do to blend out the hood to the fender at the sides of the cowl. I was a little worried about this because I did the upsweep extension on the back of the hood and kind of just eyeballed it as far as how it would blend out. I am pretty happy about the way it looks.

Since I moved the nose back to eliminate the 1" space between it and the fenders I had to deal with the issue of it now being too narrow.
I thought about pulling it back out but it turns out it is still a bit narrow.
I thought about sectioning the nose but the easiest thing would have been to split it down the middle and re-glass it together. To late for that.
Building up the ends was out. Just too much material to add. Almost 3/8 of and inch to each side.
I took a look at the fenders and decided a risky move. I decided to cut the top edge in a pie shape about 8" back from the front ,pull it in and re-weld it. After looking at it forever I noticed that the 70 fenders actually curve in and then they go slightly straight for that distance. The fender actually seems to blend into the curve of the nose a little better now.

I got to fooling around with the drop down headlight doors over the week end. I took one last stab at making them retractable but there is just not enough length above the openings to get the doors completely out of the the way of the headlight opening. So I went back to the drop down idea using a window motor to actuate them. I decided to hinge them from the very front of the opening as this gave me the most room to move the headlights closer to the opening. I am thinking I will also have to find an alternative to the Challenger headlights as only about 2/3 of them show through the height of the opening when the doors are down. Still playing around with that though. The doors drop really fast but the come up nicely..Here is a little video of them operating.

Got to fooling around with the headlight covers on the nose of the car over the weekend. They drop really fast but they work.
Posted by Steve Mirabelli on Monday, September 22, 2014

As far as the mounting of the nose I have already done my final adjustment for location and built the support frame accordingly.
I agree that the turn signal situation is not perfect as it relates to a modern car with the lights up high and to the side but I wanted the signals to blend into the nose like they do on the Superbird. Rather than re-invent the wheel I have just copied that look .
I had always planned to put the headlights in the nose with drop down doors . I am using 2012 Challenger headlight housings for that. The only drawback of the drop down door is what you pointed out with the signals in that it sets the headlights deep in the nose. This will probably cause the beams not to cast to the sides very well but again while it is not design perfect it is a compromise for a look I want. I  invoke hot rod privilege here.

Well after many different versions I finally got to where I wanted with the side glass situation in the drivers door. Adjusting it to seal and operate smoothly  was a bit of a nightmare to say the least. I ended up going back to the original 68 seal after all was said and done. I moved everything around so much between the back window and the front I won't be surprised if everything doesn't collapse from metal fatigue. eek There is definitely a sweet spot where the rear window is just far forward enough and angled in enough to where the front window closes against it just right with out causing friction running it up while still sealing at the top and not leaning too far out when rolled down.
I ended up cutting the stainless channel that holds the rubber seal so that I could reshape it to better seal bot at the top and at the "A" pillar.  After that was done I re welded the front edge back to it and installed it. The roof edge that I had already welded on when I removed the rain gutter was all wrong at this point and had to be cut back away and a new one fabricated that would properly capture the stainless track.
I primed and painted the inside of the door shell and then prepped the outer skin to finally be attached to the inner. Since I am not running the outside belt moldings I had to re-make the upper rim of the skin to eliminate all of the holes on the top side.
I also had to install some fiberglass honeycomb board just below the door handle location to stiffen it up . This was applied with 3M double sided trim tape. If you ever use that stuff if you'll clean both surfaces with acetone you will have a hell of a time getting it back off.

One of the other things I had to do was to make a backer piece for the rear view mirror to strengthen this area. I worked a piece of .060 steel to the shape of the area then stuck it into place with the 3M tape. When the mirror is bolted on this will hopefully reduce any flex in the skin there.

One thing I did once I got the inner door placed where I wanted it was to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the hinges so that they would be easier to re-align when re-installing them. 

Finally I attached the skin to the inner door. Pretty satisfying having a solid door back on the car.

The window project really made me feel like I was stuck on a one way dead end street. Seemed like whenever I thought "all it needs now is a little tune up" I would find something that would make me go back to square one. To keep up the momentum I decided to fool around with the nose. At the outset I had thought I would build a steel nose and just use the glass one as a guide. I decided that Dane had a pretty good argument about the durability of the glass nose so I decided to just go with it. I needed to come up with a way to hang it on the car so I first installed an "L" bracket at the inside top of the nose. Then I put a "Z" flange on the lower back rim. The idea being that it will hang from the top and then be captured at the bottom.

The next thing I had to do is create a solid mount off of the bumper support on the SRT. I used some .060 steel angle to pick up both front rails of the car and then found bolt up positions on top of the support. 

I built a 3/4" x 3/4" frame that fit the inside back of the nose. I then mocked the nose up so that I could attach the frame to my new supports. The nose hung on quite nicely when all was said and done.

As you can see by this picture I decided to glass in the Daytona grill and cut a Superbird style grill in to the bottom of the nose.

This is something I had thought about  since I first saw the two cars. Seems that the Charger got cheated out of the better styling because it was a rush to get it to the track. So I am taking this opportunity to add those few touches that I think made the Bird a better looking front facia. I got some Coronet turn signal lenses from E-bay. A whole lot cheaper than the Bird re-pops at over $200 for two lenses. They should work fine.

I also went the route that Dane and Daytonalo  took and pushed the nose back to the fenders to eliminate the 1" gap. This does cause some issues with the fenders being wider than the nose but I think I can sort that out.

Well the glass finally came in and I must say I am pretty pleased with it. It is pretty heavy and right at the limit for what the window motor will handle but the main thing is it is frame less on top and in front and has a clean look to it. Also it is plenty strong and has a positive engagement with the roof and A post seal. As far as the seal is concerned after struggling to get the quarter window to not ride out on it I swapped it out for the secondary or inner seal from the 06 Charger. It is much more compliant and has a finished edge to cover the edge of the head liner. One way or another there will probably be some wind noise compared to a newer car. Not much to be done there. I just hope I can keep water from driving in should I get caught in a rain storm on a drive.
Anyway since this is laminated glass I had to make a channel to capture the bottom of the glass. Initially I tried to use a "U" channel but I wasn't satisfied that it  would be enough to protect the glass. I ultimately got some .060 mild steel and stepped it in a press brake at work to create a two part channel that I could sandwich the glass in.  After I adhered the rear glass trim piece with a new seal I sprayed a little contact cement to stick down some  1/16th" rubber/cork strips to pad the base of the glass. I then through bolted the bottom channel on the glass.
Nearly everything I had done to the inner door up until now had to be cut out and re worked. What was fine for a piece of flexible Lexan was no good for a rigid piece of glass. Took me forever t adjust every thing and line it up with the quarter window but it is in.
I am not looking forward to trying to get this set once the door skin is on and I have to work blind but that is the nature of these things. If it was easy little kids would be doing this stuff.